Split (1)

train · 1.02k rows

ingredient stringlengths 3 120	description stringlengths 0 8.3k
Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate	An amino-acid based cleansing agent that is described as extremely mild and having outstanding foamability. It can also reduce the harshness and leftover of stronger surfactants such as SLS or fatty acid soaps.
Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2	A spherical powder that holds more than 20 times its dry weight in water. Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2 gives formulas a unique gel-to-water-to-powder transformation. It also has a blurring effect on lines & wrinkles.
Tetrapeptide-30	A four amino acid peptide (Proline – Lysine – Glutamic Acid – Lysine; PKEK) whose main magic power is to fade hyperpigmentation (aka age spots) and even out the skin tone . According to its German manufacturer , Tetrapeptide-30 has a nice anti-inflammatory function that leads to a dual action in hindering the pigmentation process. It acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor (the famous enzyme needed to create melanin), and it also blocks the transfer of the melanin up into the top layers of the skin. The manufacturer has done several clinical studies to back up its claims and examined what Tetrapeptide-30 is doing on Caucasian, Asian as well as on ethnic skin. The results confirmed skin-brightening, reduction of age spots, reduction of skin redness and even some reduction of acne lesions. In the reduction of age spots, the peptide showed some synergistic effects with the nice vitamin-C derivative, called SAP .
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone	A chemical sunscreen agent that's very oil soluble and requires relatively low concentrations to achieve high SPF values (it gives an SPF 12.5 at the max allowed concentration of 10%). It protects in the UVB and UVA II range (but not in UVA I) with a peak protection at 310 nm. It's particularly suitable for water-repellent and water-resistant formulations. Regarding photostability, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone is super photostable . It looses 10% of its SPF protection abilities only in 25 (!!) hours when 2 hours counts already as "photostable" in the world of chemical sunscreens. Btw, it is not a FDA-approved sunscreen agent, so you will not find it in sunscreens coming from the US. It's allowed up to 10% in Europe and up to 5% in Japan.
Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax	The flower wax coming from Mimosa that has nice skin protecting and film-forming properties. It also has a nice, sweet smell well known to perfumers. Mimosa wax often comes to the formula together with sunflower and jojoba waxes as the three of them is trade named Acticire and form a natural texture agent that works both as an emollient bringing softness to the formula as well as an active ingredient with skin-repairing , protecting, and moisturizing properties.
Polyglycerin-3	Three glycerin molecules attached together. It is a humectant and moisturizer ingredient just like glycerin, but the larger molecular structure penetrates slower into the skin and gives milder, longer lasting moisture.
Raspberry Ketone	It is the main aroma compound of red raspberries and has a sweet, floral, berry or jam-like raspberry scent. It's used to make cosmetic products smell nice. The molecule used in cosmetics is created synthetically, as the natural one costs a fortune (20 000 $/kg, wow, according to Wikipedia ).
Olive Oil Glycereth-8 Esters	An olive oil derived ingredient modified to be water-dispersible while also keeping the original properties of olive oil. While being an emollient , it also has a very gentle cleansing action and can be used as a co-emulsifier and enhancer in cleansing products.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax	A hard wax coming from sunflower that has a high melting point and gives excellent thermal stability to the formulas. Similar to other waxes, it is used to stabilize products and give body to them , or to keep stick type formulas, such as lip balms, solid.
SH-Polypeptide-1	Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a cell signaling protein also called Basic Fibroblast Growth Factor and is twin sister to Acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor . We can write here pretty much the same things as we did on aFGF: it is a mitogenic (= stimulates cell proliferation) ingredient that stimulates fibroblast cell growth and proliferation . According to manufacturer info, it also stimulates the synthesis of collagen and other extracellular-matrix (the gooey stuff between cells) components. Growth Factors and skincare is a big, complicated and controversial topic, so if you wanna know more, we have a more detailed explanation on Epidermal Growth Factor, the most common one used in skincare .
Ci 77288	An inorganic (as in no carbon in its molecule, it is Cr2O3) pigment that gives dull olive green shades . It is not permitted in lip products in the US.
Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone	A silicone fluid used mainly to treat insoluble powders (such as mineral sunscreen agents or pigments) so that they are easily and evenly dispersable both in the formula and on the skin.
SH-Polypeptide-9	Sh-Polypeptide-9 is a cell signaling protein also called Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor. As its name suggests, its main function is to stimulate the formation of blood vessels. As to what it does in cosmetic products, we found manufacturers info claiming that it plays a role in supplying fibroblast cells (VIP skin cells that make collagen) with nutrients, in the growth and migration of cells and in wound healing . It usually comes to the formula as part of a Growth Factor mix trade named BIO-Placenta , that combines EGF , IGF-1 , FGF1 , FGF2 and this guy to form a synergistic growth factor cocktail . BIO Placenta is claimed to do pretty much everything you would want from an anti-aging active including anti-wrinkle, skin rejuvenation, elasticity enhancement, moisturizing and cell vitalization properties. This all sounds great and Growth Factors are for sure potent cell signaling molecules, but the use of them in cosmetic products is somewhat controversial , so if you are new to the topic, read our explanation at EGF to get a (hopefully) balanced view .
Barosma Betulina Leaf Extract	The extract coming from Buchu, a South-African medicinal plant traditionally used to treat urinary tract infections. As for skincare, the main active component of Buchu leaves is a flavonoid called diosmin that can act as an APN (aminopeptidase N) inhibitor. APN is an enzyme that plays some role in the sebocyte (the skin cells that create sebum) differentiation and sebum generation process and inhibiting it means less sebum produced by the skin . The manufacturer did some in-vivo tests with 20 volunteers for 28 days and found that Barosma Betulina Leaf Extract does have a "statistically significant" sebum regulating effect, though do not expect miracles, the average reduction of sebum was only 13% that we think is not that much.
Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate	An oil-soluble, chemical sunscreen agent that protects in the UVB (290-320 nm) range with a peak absorbance at 310 nm and with some additional protection in the UVA II (320-340nm) range. It is a newer generation UV filter that is approved up to 10% in the EU, but not (yet) available in the US due to impossible FDA regulations.
Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate	A medium viscosity, odorless oily liquid that leaves an excellent afterfeel, with the skin feeling soft and conditioned. The feel is described by the manufacturer as slightly oily but not tacky or sticky. Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate often comes to the formula mixed with two other emollients, Tridecyl Stearate , and Tridecyl Trimellitate , as the trio can match the aesthetic and textural properties of ruined-by-natural-marketers mineral oil .
Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract	The fermentation broth of the nice, edible mushroom known as Shiitake . Apart from the gourmet food industry, it is also used in several industrial applications as it contains biocatalytic enzymes (such as laccase, cellulase, and ligninolytic peroxidases) useful for breaking down things both in the paper and textile industries. The latter one, the textile industry, uses Shiitake ferment to break down dyes in waste streams in an environmentally friendly way and this gave the skincare industry an idea: if Shiitake ferment can break down synthetic pigments, it might be able to do that to natural pigment, i.e: melanin . Based on the in-vitro (in a test-tube) and in-vivo tests by the manufacturer , the idea seems to work. On a panel of ten volunteers, 2% Shiitake Ferment was compared to nothing, to 0.05% Glabridin (the powerful active ingredient in licorice root ) and to 2% Kojic acid. The Shiitake formula came out on top. It lightened UVB-treated skin by 50% after 28 days (just for comparison, untreated skin lightened by 30%). Overall , Shitakee ferment is an interesting new approach to skin-brightening , so if you suffer from extra pigmentation, it might be something to experiment with.
Whey Protein	Protein fragments, aka peptides and growth factors derived from milk (whey). It is claimed to boost the production of important extracellular matrix components (the gooey stuff between the skin cells) such as hyaluronic acid, collagen I and fibronectin. The in-vivo (made on people) tests showed reduced wrinkles and improved firmness within two weeks by using 0.5% of Whey Protein.
SH-Oligopeptide-2	Sh-Oligopeptide-2 is also called Insulin-like growth factor 1 and it belongs to the same group of ingredients (Growth Factors) as its better-known sister, Epidermal Growth Factor or Sh-Oligopeptide-1 . This guy consists of 70 amino acids and, similar to EGF, it is also claimed to stimulate cell proliferation and wound healing . There is also a study that indicates EGF and IGF1 work in synergy to promote keratinocyte (skin cell) proliferation. The topic of Growth Factors in skincare is complex and controversial . If you are new to it, read our shiny explanation on EGF to get a (hopefully) balanced impression about the pros and cons.
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor	4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor is a chemical sunscreen agent that protects in the UVB range (290-320 nm) with a peak absorbance at 301 nm. It is an oil-soluble powder that is slightly photo-unstable (it takes 65 minutes to lose 10% of its protecting power and 345 minutes to lose half of it), but it can still help to stabilize the famously unstable UVA filter, avobenzone . Regarding its safety, we do not have the best news. Two possible concerns are that it absorbs into the body and might have some estrogenic activity there. But do not panic, the latter one was only shown in rats and is probably not the case in humans. Still, this is a UV filter that is currently being phased out of use. It is not approved in the US and Japan, and the EU also banned it starting in 2026 (however it is approved in Australia up to 4%).
Tripeptide-29	A small, three-amino acid peptide (Glycine-Proline-Hydroxyproline) found naturally in our collagen structure . The theory behind Tripeptide-29 is the following: Collagen is a long sequence of amino acids and breaking it down produces short amino acid sequences, aka peptides. These peptides "signal" to the skin that collagen was lost and that new collagen should be produced. So putting collagen-fragment-identical peptides on the skin might trick it into thinking that new collagen is needed . The unique thing about Tripeptide-29 is that it is not produced by traditional methods such as chemically chopping up collagen as it gives lots of random peptides, but it is produced via modern peptide synthesis (from non-animal and non-GMO sources) that gives it exceptional purity . So Tripeptide-29 is available as a pure powder, unlike most peptides that are available as diluted solutions, which makes it possible to use it in much higher concentrations . This sounds great but there is a catch : the efficacy data from the manufacturer contains only two tests, both in-vitro, aka done in test tubes, not on real people. Based on the lab test, 3% Tripeptide-29 can increase collagen type I synthesis by 400% after 48 hours. However, if anything happens when Tripeptide-29 is applied on real human skin is a good question with no answer (at least we could not find one). Overall, the theory is nice, but the proof is missing. If you are into peptides and experimenting, this sure sounds interesting but if you like the tried and true this one is not for you.
Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/Eicosadioate	A pale yellow, waxy solid (chemically an ester of decaglycerin and a blend of behenic and eicosadioic acids) that works as an alcohol gelling agent and as a t hickener and stabilizer for oil-in-water preparations.
PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate	A type of lipid that is used in liposome technology. It has a special chemical structure (a water-loving PEG head with two oil-loving tails) that allows forming thermodynamically stable liposomes . This means when Peg-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate is mixed with water it forms tiny bilayered circles (with an active ingredient in the middle of it) spontaneously. This is useful both for stabilizing unstable ingredients (such as pure Vitamin C) as well as for solubilizing difficult ingredients (such as cholesterol).
Ethylhexyl Benzoate	Ethylhexyl Benzoate is a clear, almost colorless, oily liquid with a light and dry skin feel . But it is not only a nice and light emollient but also an excellent solubilizer for hard-to-dissolve sunscreen agents.
Copper Chlorophyll	A modified version of the oil-soluble, natural colorant, Chlorophyll that gives blue/green shades . Compared to Chlorophyll, Copper Chlorophyll has improved stability and brightness.
Cocos Nucifera Shell Powder	The powder of the finely ground shells of the Coconut. It comes in different sizes and is used as a scrub .
Ornithine	Ornithine is an amino acid that is the active ingredient in the skin-plumping active trade named Adipofill'In. According to the manufacturer , Adipofill'In is able to increase fatty tissue volume by activating the transcription factor called HIF-1α and thus it has a lipofilling -like effect through a non-invasive method. It is supposed to be an especially useful active for deep wrinkles, such as the nasolabial fold (the wrinkle between the nose and mouth). In their in-vivo test made with 20 volunteers using 2% Adipofill'In cream twice a day for 60 days, the manufacturer measured up to 37.6% reduction of wrinkle depth and up to 27.5% reduction of skin roughness.
Isopentyldiol	A water-soluble, colorless, odorless humectant liquid that makes your skin nice and smooth (aka emollient) and gives a dry, non-tacky skin feel. It also has great instant and some longer-lasting moisturizing effect and works in synergy with fellow moisturizer, sorbitol .
Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate	A sulfate-free, mild cleansing agent that is used next to other cleansing agents (aka co-surfactant) mainly as a foam booster and viscosity builder .
Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA	A bio - mimetic ceramide molecule that is claimed to be similarly effective as ceramide 3 at moisturizing the skin and helping the barrier function. We have more about ceramides here . The advantages of Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA are a lower melting point and hence easier formulation and better price point than real ceramides.
Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract	The extract coming from witch hazel that has astringent, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-bacterial properties. We have written in way more details about Hamamelis Virginiana Extract here >>
Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract	Out of the more than 900 Citrus species known today, Citrus Unshiu is a seedless, easy to peel tangerine coming from the Japanese town Satsuma. The peel extract used in cosmetics is mainly created from the "press-cake", the by-product of the juice industry and as it turns out, what's waste to one industry is a useful ingredient to another. In cosmetics, the main thing of the Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract is being a skin-brightening or whitening agent . In-vitro (made in test tubes) and animal studies both show promising results for inhibiting tyrosinase, the famous enzyme regulating melanin production. It also contains antioxidant components such as carotenoids, coumarins, limonoids, and flavonoids that might be useful for the skin to protect itself from UV caused damages. The downside of citrus peel extracts (that prevents our goodie rating) is that they usually contain some amount of essential oil components, though the amount is probably way too low to worry about unless you're super-duper sensitive.
Ceresin	A hydrocarbon wax produced by the purification of another hydrocarbon wax , ozokerite . Similar to ozokerite, it is mostly used in stick type products to keep them nice and solid .
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water	The much-much diluted version of the famous Tea Tree Essential Oil , the so-called hydrosol that is created as a by-product of steam-distillation used for producing essential oils. In general, hydrosols contain the same components as their big sister essential oil but in way-reduced concentrations. We have seen a specification saying 99% of the tea tree water is water, and about 1% consists of very small amounts of the dissolved essential oil and the water-soluble parts of the tea tree leaves. So tea tree water might have some soothing, antibacterial and anti-acne properties but much less strong than the essential oil .
Cetyl Lactate	Cetyl Lactate is a multipurpose emollient that gives the formula a nice slip and makes your skin silky and smooth. It is also claimed to reduce tackiness and greasiness in the formulation.
Lauryl Methacrylate/Sodium Methacrylate Crosspolymer	A synthetic copolymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) that is used as a slip and surface modifier . It is claimed to give sunscreen formulas long-lasting, lightweight and non-sticky properties.
Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/ Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters	A 100% plant-based moisturizing and texturizing agent that is based on the transesterification of Sunflower, Jojoba, and Mimosa waxes. The resulting material is a soft, smooth butter halfway between liquid emollients and solid butters. It has similar emollient and moisturizing properties to lanolin , however, it is much more compatible with water in oil emulsions. 5% of the wax ester makes it possible to include up to 15% water into traditionally water-free formulas such as lip balms or massage oils.
Polyamide-8	A so-called organogellant (a gelling agent that likes organic compounds such as oils) that helps to increase the viscosity of the oils phase in the formula.
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid	A L'Oréal-group exclusive sunscreen agent commonly called Mexoryl SX. As opposed to most sunscreen agents, it is water soluble and protects in the UVA range with a peak absorbance at 345 nm.
Retinyl Retinoate	Retinyl Retinoate (RR) is a less well known but super interesting member of the retinoids (vitamin A derivatives), aka the "royal family of skincare". Unless you live under a skincare-news-shielding rock, you must have heard about tretinoin , the FDA-approved anti-aging superstar, and retinol , the most common OTC version of tretinoin. You can read more about whos-who in the retinoid family here . Enter Retinyl Retinoate, a molecule that is created by attaching retinol to retinoic acid . The attachment makes the molecule more stable (pure retinol is unstable and hard to formulate) as well as more active . If you read our shiny description about retinol you will know that it is not active and has to be converted by our metabolic machinery to become retinoic acid, the biologically active molecule. The conversion is not very effective and takes two steps. Retinyl Retinoate also has to be converted , but in the first step , our cells break up the molecule to become retinoic acid (the active) and retinol , meaning that it becomes active both after the first conversion step as well as later on once retinol is further converted. The Korean research group, who invented the molecule, did several studies published in well-respected journals to prove that Retinyl Retinoate has better anti-aging activity than retinol . In marketing materials, RR is often touted to be 8 times as active as retinol, but as far as research goes we can cite that " the biological activity of retinyl retinoate was in between the properties of retinol and retinoic acid. Retinyl retinoate showed higher biological activity than that of retinol, such as RAR activity and collagen synthesis. Also, retinyl retinoate showed a similar side-effect to that of retinol, and not retinoic acid ." As for in-vivo, aka done on real people studies, there is one from 2010 that compares 0.06% Retinyl Retinoate to placebo and to 0.075% retinol. The conclusion of this study was that 0.06% RR is "significantly" more effective than placebo or retinol , and RR also had a faster-acting effect. Another study (in test tubes + mouse skin) concluded that RR increases the Hyaluronic acid production more than other retinoids and is also less of an irritant . RR shows promise for treating acne . In an 8 week, double-blind clinical study, 0.05% retinyl retinoate "showed a significant decrease in both inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions, and in sebum amount". It even had some activity against P.acnes that makes it a promising ingredient for acne prone skin, especially when combined with other actives. Overall , we find Retinyl Retinoate a very interesting and promising member of the retinoid family. It is not as proven as good old retinol (the multiple studies on RR come from the same research guys), but it promises several advantages (more stable, more active, less irritating), so we say that if you like retinoids, RR is worth trying.
Aristotelia Chilensis Oil	Maqui Berries are small, dark berries , similar to better-known blackberries, that grow natively in the temperate rainforests of Chile . The fruit is touted as a "superfruit" rich in antioxidant anthocyanins and other phenolics. The oil is a dark green liquid that, similar to other plant oils, is loaded with unsaturated fatty acids (86%) such as nourishing oleic acid (33%) and barrier-repairing linoleic acid (46%). We could not find any other research-verified info about Maqui Oil, though some websites claim that it is rich in Vitamin E and is generally a strong antioxidant oil.
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate	Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a variation of current IT moisturizer, Hyaluronic acid , where some water-loving -OH groups are replaced by amphipathic (partly water-loving and partly water-hating) acetyl groups. The modified molecule is claimed to have even better moisture retention ability than normal HA and better affinity to the skin surface. The better affinity comes from the acetyl groups that act as tiny "anchors" to attach the HA molecule to the skin. Staying on top of the skin better and longer means longer-lasting surface hydration and improved elasticity . It is also less sticky and more cosmetically elegant than normal HA, so no wonder the nickname of this molecule is super hyaluronic acid.
Polyglyceryl-10 Eicosanedioate/Tetradecanedioate	An oily liquid (ester) that is not oil-soluble (as most other esters), but water soluble . It has nice emollient and skin moisturizing properties, and an elegant skin-feel. It can also reduce the stickiness of glycerin and oils in the formula.
Polypropylsilsesquioxane	Polypropylsilsesquioxane is a silicone resin that forms a flexible, durable film on the skin. The film is resistant to wash-off and rub-off and is useful for creating long-lasting makeup products and sunscreens.
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone	A nature-identical (but synthetic) molecule that copies a phyto-active found in grains of paradise , a spice from the ginger family. It is claimed to be a 4-in-1 active with potent topical & cellular antioxidant, anti-irritant, and hyaluronic acid booster activity, however, the manufacturer did only some in-vitro and ex-vivo (as in nothing done on real people... ) tests to back up these claims.
Hydrogen Dimethicone	A silicone molecule that is half-way between Dimethicone and Methicone , meaning that some of the methyl (-CH3) groups are replaced with a hydrogen atom (in Methicone half of the CH3 groups are replaced). This makes Hydrogen Dimethicone a handy pigment bonding agent used for the hydrophobization treatment of powders as the H atoms can absorb traces of water from the surface of pigments. It almost always comes stuck together with either Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide or Mica. In suncare products, it binds to physical UV filters to maximize their protection while minimizing any white casts. It also has good chemical stability with no irritation. In makeup, it is often paired with Mica where it offers nice hydrophobic properties and improves skin adhesion - meaning it will make it easier for products to stay where they should be.
Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate	An emollient ester giving a long-lasting lubricious skin feel.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3	A relatively new, four amino acid peptide that promises to help combat hair loss alongside red clover extract as part of the trademarked technology Capixyl . The main thing of Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 is to stimulate the synthesis of key Extra Cellular Matrix (aka ECM, the gooey stuff between cells that make up the framework of our skin) components in the scalp. According to the manufacturer’s lab studies, the expression of type III collagen increased by 65% and the expression of laminins (anchoring proteins found in the ECM) was up a massive 285%, resulting in a stronger ECM bed for hair anchoring . Together with red clover extract , the duo has a synergistic action and works to combat hair loss thanks to a neat multi-faceted approach: it not only stimulates important ECM components but also inhibits the DHT-causing 5-a-reductase enzyme (DHT is the annoying hormone largely responsible for male pattern baldness) and reduces micro-inflammation around hair follicles . The manufacturer’s study over 4 months showed the total impact of Capixyl was an increased anagen (growth phase)/telogen (resting phase) ratio of +46%, resulting in significantly denser hair. All in all , Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 is a promising ingredient in the fight against hair loss, but as the only results we could find were from the manufacturer, take these claims with a pinch of salt until more research is done.
Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer	A polymer molecule (big molecule from repeated subunits) whose main thing is being a film-former . It is often dissolved in a volatile carrier fluid that evaporates from the skin leaving a nice, flexible film with great water, oil and abrasion resistance , oxygen permeability, and long-lasting cosmetic effect . These properties are especially useful for sun protection formulas and long-lasting foundations.
No Title	A bacteria species that can ferment plant oils by producing enzymes and is used to create "fermented oils". The fermentation process produces various types of polysaccharides and lipids and increases the free fatty acid content of the oils. Fermented oils also tend to have quicker skin absorption, a less-greasy skin feeling and are easier to mix with water, aka emulsify. Pseudozyma Epicola in itself is not a valid INCI name, it should be part of a longer name coupled with some oils and/or plant extracts that were fermented using the bacteria. See more here >>
Mannose	Mannose is one of the many sugar molecule s out there and similar to the other ones, it works as a great humectant and moisturizer in cosmetic products.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate	The famous or rather infamous SLS (not to be confused with SLES ). It is a cleansing agent known for being too good at the job and potentially irritating the skin. But, on the positive side, it can produce copious, creamy and luxurious foam compared to the more gentle and thus nowadays much more commonly used Sodium Laureth Sulfate . In fact, SLS is so good at irritating the skin that it is very commonly used in dermatological studies just for that. It is a so-called "primary irritant", a substance that irritates the skin in one go (without prior sensitization) but doesn't do any other big harm (such as being carcinogenic or systematically toxic - those claims are not true). Also, the formula can greatly influence the irritating potential of SLS, and mixing it with other cleaning agents makes it milder . If it's not in a cleanser, it works as an emulsifier or even as a penetration enhancer for active materials.
C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone	A silicone wax that functions as a thickening agent and also gives great lubricity and skin feel.
Retinyl Propionate	Retinyl Propionate (RP) is a less well-known, but pretty interesting member of the retinoids , aka the "royal family of skincare". You can read the who's who here but the TL;DR version is that tretinoin is the king himself (the FDA-proven anti-aging active molecule), retinol is like Prince George (two conversion steps needed to be active) and Retinyl Palmitate is like Prince Charlotte (George's little sister), 3 steps away from the throne. Similar to Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Propionate is also a retinol ester with retinol and propionic acid being attached together. This puts our molecule in the place of little Princess Charlotte on the family tree, quite far away from the throne. However, not all retinol ester molecules are made equal when it comes to being transformed and being effective on the skin. As Dr. Fulton (the scientist behind both Retin-A and RP) puts it in his patent paper, "Other esters of vitamin A obtained from, for example, palmitic acid and acetic acid do not have the therapeutic advantages found with vitamin A propionate ..... Presumably, the [Retinyl Palmitate] molecule is so large, it is not able to transdermally reach the necessary part of the skin for activity. Similarly, vitamin A acetate is too small molecularly and therefore easily recrystallizes from any solution.....vitamin A propionate is the appropriate molecular weight and configuration to both remain in a stable solution and to be transdermally delivered to a site where it is active." So while the effectiveness of other retinol esters is highly questionable, Retinyl Propionate seems to be the most effective retinol ester molecule , and it " unexpectedly provides all the benefits of vitamin A acid but minimizes the negative side effects ", at least according to Dr. Fulton, the inventor of the molecule. We know what you are thinking! This sounds great and all, but what about some proof? Some backup data not from the inventor himself? We looked into it and found three studies working with Retinyl Propionate. In a 2007 study by Dr. Draelos, she references a 12-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial that compared the effectiveness of 0.15% retinol with 0.3% Retinyl Propionate . Both actives were effective in reducing the appearance of facial wrinkles and hyperpigmentation and the 0.3% RP worked a bit better. Another research that was done by Procter & Gamble combined multiple anti-aging actives including niacinamide, peptides and 0.3% of Retinyl Propionate and they compared this regimen with a 0.02% tretinoin regimen. They found that the cosmetic regimen was tolerated better, worked faster and gave comparable results. All this sounds very promising for RP, however, it is hard to know how much the other actives contributed to the positive results. Last, but not least there is a study from 1998 that tested a 0.15% Retinyl Propionate cream and after 24 weeks found no statistically significant difference between the effects of the retinyl propionate cream and the placebo preparation for any of the clinical parameters of skin photoaging. However, after 48 weeks, the 0.15% RP worked wonders for actinic keratoses , a rough, scaly patch caused by UV damage (its name contains actinic, but it is not acne, has nothing to do with it (!)). So, it seems that the minimum effective dose of Retinyl Propionate is larger than 0.15% which is not surprising given that it has to do three conversion steps to reach the active form, retinoic acid. But 0.3% RP (or more, obvs) seems to be an effective dose , and even though the proof is not as solid as it is for retinol itself, if you are looking for a more gentle alternative , or if you are in the mood for experimentation , Retinyl Propionate looks like a noteworthy alternative and the most promising option among retinol esters .
Benzophenone-5	Benzophenone-5 is the sodium salt brother of Benzophenone-4 , and just like that guy, this one also works mainly as a photoprotectant to extend product shelf life , or as a color-protectant for products in clear packages.
Sodium Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonate	The salt form of the water-soluble chemical sunscreen , Ensulizole . What we wrote there ( UVB filter with a peak protection at 306 nm), applies here as well. In fact, the pure acid form (aka Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) can be incorporated into a sunscreen formula only if it is neutralized with a base (otherwise it is not water-soluble), so even if the acid form in on the ingredient list, what you have in the formula is a salt form, just like this one. You can read more here >>
Coptis Japonica Root Extract	The extract coming from the root of the traditional medicinal herb, Coptis Japonica or Japanese Goldthread . The plant is used traditionally in East Asia for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial abilities. Other than that, there is also an abstract from the International Journal of Cosmetic Science that found Coptis Japonica Root Extract and its active component called berberine to show potent inhibition of triglyceride (aka fat) accumulation and subcutaneous preadipocytes (the cells that become later fat cells) differentiation meaning that Goldthread Extract might also be useful in slimming and anti-cellulite products .
Caffeyl Glucoside	The water-soluble, stabilized, and purified version of the famous antioxidant molecule, caffeic acid (caffeic acid attached to the sugar molecule, glucose), the main phyto-active of green coffee. Caffeyl Glucoside is also claimed to have a strong anti-inflammatory and photoprotective effect .
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14	Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14 is the payload peptide (a short chain of amino acids) in the encapsulated copper peptide technology trade named X50 Antiaging. The delivery system (called The Cosmetic Drone) is a high-tech capsule where our peptide is wrapped in a biocompatible polymer shell (created from Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol) and another peptide , which has an affinity to the fibroblast receptors, sits on the outside of the capsule and guides it to the right place in the skin. The right place in this case is the fibroblast cell (the important collagen-producing cell in the dermis), so once Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14 is there, it promotes the gene expression of both collagen and elastin . According to the 30-person in-vivo (made on real humans) test of the manufacturer, the participants experienced an average of 33% reduction in wrinkles and 19% increase in elasticity in 28 days. Thanks to the advanced delivery system, the active works at the tiniest concentration of 0.001%. Fun fact: the unit of sale for the X50 Antiaging powder is not kg as all other actives but it is g, this is how little you need from it.
Rosmarinyl Glucoside	The water-soluble, stabilized and bio-available version of rosmarinic acid (rosmarinic acid attached to the sugar molecule, glucose), the active super component in Rosemary . It is known for its potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. According to manufacturer's info , it not only inhibits important inflammation pathways, but it also protects important ECM (Extra Cellular Matrix - the gooey stuff between the skin cells) components, such as collagen and hyaluronic acid . Both are done by inhibiting evil enzymes that attack these important skin building blocks, such as famous collagen-destroying enzyme MMP, and HA eating enzyme hyaluronidase.
Polysilicone-15	A silicone-based, chemical sunscreen agent that protects the skin in the UVB range (290-320 nm) with a peak absorbance at 312 nm. It is a colorless to pale yellow liquid with nice and non-shiny (at least compared to most other sunscreens) sensorial properties. It is a pretty good team player and can stabilize the famously unstable UVA filter, avobenzone and works especially well with Ensulizole to achieve high SPF protection. It is approved up to 10% as a sunscreen filter in the EU and most parts of the world, except for the United States.
Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide	A big sugar molecule coming from the edible fruit bodies of the Silver Ear mushroom in China . Its sugar constituents include Glucuronic acid , the same guy that is one of the building blocks of IT-moisturizer Hyaluronic Acid . It is claimed to have similarly awesome water-binding capacities meaning it works as an excellent skin moisturizer and humectant . We have more info about Tremella Fuciformis here >>
Asiatic Acid	One of the biologically active components of Gotu Kola . It's a bit less prominent than its sister component, Asiaticoside , but in-vitro (made in the lab) studies show that Asiatic Acid also stimulates GAGs (glycosaminoglycans - polysaccharides that are part of the liquidy stuff between our skin cells) production as well as collagen I synthesis. English translation equals that it probably contributes to the well-established moisturizing and wound healing abilities of Gotu Kola .
Glycereth-7 Trimethyl Ether	A light yellow liquid ester that gives a slightly dry, silky emollience on the skin. Its unique property is that it is both water-soluble as well as castor oil soluble. This dual solubility is a rare trait that enables the addition of water into waterless formulas, such as lipsticks or balms. Glycereth-7 Trimethyl Ether is also very pH stable and dissolves salicylic acid so it can be a nice helper ingredient in alcohol-free (alcohol is a very good solvent for SA) salicylic acid formulas.
Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate	A mild cleansing agent that's used mainly next to other cleansing agents (co-surfactant) to improve foam density and regulate viscosity .
Poloxamer 188	A synthetic big copolymer molecule that is used as a solubilizer, mild cleansing agent and foam booster or stabilizer. If you want to understand poloxamers more, we have a shiny description at Poloxamer 184 and Poloxamer 407 . This particular poloxamer, the 188 is quite similar to the 184 version, but it is more water-soluble (80% water-soluble parts) so it can act more as a solubilizer helping to dissolve oil-loving things in water-based formulas. Similar to 184, this one also works as a mild cleansing agent, but while 184 is claimed to be more effective at cleansing, the 188 is better at foaming.
Secale Cereale Seed Extract	As a plant extract, it is hard to know what it is exactly: it might be little exfoliant particles, or - if you are looking at the ingredient list of an anti-aging product - it is most likely a rye extract rich in arabinoxylans with possible skin smoothing and glow enhancing properties . According to manufacturer claims , their rye extract can improve the skin’s mechanical resistance and reduce the appearance of gravity wrinkles. The manufacturer did a 20-person, 56-day long study that showed an antiwrinkle effect at both the crow’s-feet and the nasolabial fold : a 13% and 23% decrease in the number of wrinkles, a 15% and 26% reduction of the total surface of wrinkles, and a 16% and 27% reduction of their length.
Bakuchiol	At first glance, you could think that Bakuchiol is your average plant extract . It is derived from the seeds of Psoralea Corylifolia , aka Babchi, a plant important in Indian and Chinese medicine . The molecule was first isolated in 1973 and several anti-something properties are known about it: it has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-tumor, anti-bacterial and hepatoprotective magical abilities like plenty of other Ayurvedic plant extracts. What makes Bakuchiol a special snowflake is the recent discovery that it behaves on the skin in a way very similar to well-known skincare superstar, retinol . While chemically, it has nothing to do with the vitamin-A family, aka retinoids , comparative gene expression profiling (a fancy way of saying that they compared how retinol and bakuchiol modify the way skin cells behave and produce important skin proteins such as collagen) shows that retinol and bakuchiol regulate skin cell behavior in a similar way. To be more specific, both Bakuchiol and retinol upregulate collagen I, III and IV production and downregulate MMP, the evil collagen attacking enzyme in our skin. This means more collagen stays in our skin and we all know that more collagen equals firmer, more wrinkle-free skin . A 12-week clinical study using a 0.5% Bakuchiol formula with 17 people using it twice a day confirmed a significant improvement in lines and wrinkles, elasticity, firmness and an overall reduction in photo-damage. Also, the test formula was very well tolerated, without any retinol-like side effects. What's more, a 2018 double-blind study with 44 people compared 0.5% Bakuchiol with 0.5% retinol cream and found that " bakuchiol is comparable to retinol in its ability to improve photoaging and is better tolerated than retinol ". A super promising result after 12 weeks. If you are not a daredevil-type who doesn't want to stop using a super well-proven retinol for a newbie like Bakuchiol, we have good news. The two also work very nicely together and Bakuchiol can actually help to stabilize the otherwise unstable and hard to formulate retinol . And we are still not done, as Bakuchiol shows not only anti-aging properties but also nice anti-acne effects. 1% Bakuchiol seems to be very effective in itself (57% reduction in acne after 6 weeks treatment) and even better when combined with 2% salicylic acid (67% reduction in acne after 6 weeks). We like that Bakuchiol is such a good team player! The molecule works against acne in multiple ways: It downregulates 5α-reductase (a sebum-controlling enzyme), it is antibacterial (including P. acnes), anti-inflammatory and it inhibits lipid-peroxidation, an evil oxidative process that is recently thought to be a very early trigger in the acne process. We feel that this description is becoming very long so we will just mention that Bakuchiol also seems to positively regulate hydration-related genes such as Aquaporin 3 and also shows some melanin-inhibiting properties . Overall , we think Bakuchiol is an awesome molecule with lots of promise both for anti-aging and anti-acne . But the proof compared to the well-established superstars is far from solid, so in a skincare routine, we would rather add Bakuchiol next to retinol than straight up replace it. Unless you are a gimme-the-newest-shiny-thing-under-the-sun-type.
Polyquaternium-37	A cationic polymer molecule (a big molecule with repeated subunits and a positive charge) that acts both as a film-former and conditioning ingredient as well as a thickening agent .
Myristyl Nicotinate	Myristyl Nicotinate (MN) might not sound familiar, but Niacinamide probably does. If it does not, click here to catch up . Our molecule is an oil-soluble derivative of skincare superstar, niacinamide that was developed to deliver nicotinic acid to the skin without causing flushing (tiny amounts of the acid form of niacinamide cause skin flushing, but otherwise, it is a skin goodie similar to nia). And research shows that Myristyl Nicotinate delivers. It is a stable and well-tolerated molecule that is known to enhance epidermal differentiation and skin barrier function . It is also a nice addition to retinoic acid therapy to reduce the side effects such as flaking and irritation.
Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate	An oily, emollient liquid that works as a photostabilizer and solvent in sunscreen formulas . More specifically, it helps to stabilize famous UVA filter, Avobenzone and it is also an excellent solvent for oil-soluble, solid sunscreen agents.
Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide	A molecule that gives a long-lasting cooling and chilling effect to the formula. It is not derived from menthol and, according to the manufacturer, is not allergenic.
Gelatin	An animal-derived gelling agent that is a close relative to Hydrolyzed Collagen . It is created from the connective tissue (bone and skin) of animals (usually cows or pigs) and helps to thicken up water-based formulas.
Myristyl Malate Phosphonic Acid	Myristyl Malate Phosphonic Acid (let’s call it MMPA) is a synthetic phospholipid . You may have heard of phospholipids in your biology class, since they’re a main component in human cell membranes. Because of this, it makes sense that cosmetic companies want to try making some similar molecules for skin care - our skin is made of cells, after all! So MMPA is the main advertised component of the complex trade named Revidrate, which the manufacturer claims will act on the outer layers of the skin to promote the activity of natural moisturizing factors. This is basically to say that MMPA helps your skin hydrate itself . It is said to do this through promoting some complex pathways within your cells that help mature keratinocytes (the cells in the outer layer of the skin). A 38-person clinical study was conducted by the company to substantiate these claims that showed promising moisturization results after 2 months of using a cream twice a day with 3% Revidrate. All in all, MMPA seems like a promising goodie and there is no reason not to try it, especially if it’s included in a formulation with other proven ingredients.
Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol	Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol is a broadband UV absorber used to stabilize products in transparent packaging. It protects sensitive ingredients such as colors, fragrances, or natural extracts from photooxidative degradation . The recommended usage rate is 0.01% - 0.1%.
PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether	A sugar derived liquid that works as a water-soluble emollient (makes your skin nice and smooth), fragrance fixative and humectant (helps skin to hold onto water) on the skin.
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate	This long-named molecule is a chemical sunscreen agent that protects the skin from the UVA II rays (320-350 nm mainly) with a peak absorbance at 335 nm. Unlike most other sunscreen filters, it is not oil, but water-soluble helping formulators to create less greasy sunscreens. It also has a good safety profile with very low skin penetration and is approved up to 10% in the EU and pretty much everywhere else except for the United States (due to old and bad FDA sunscreen regulations).
Mentha Piperita Leaf Oil	Some variation of peppermint essential oil known for its grassy-minty smell and refreshing sensations. Its main active component is menthol , a known skin irritant. Read more here >>
Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16	A six amino acid peptide (Leu-Lys-Lys-Thr-Glu-Thr) attached to the oil-soluble fatty acid, myristic acid for better bioavailability. It is known to significantly stimulate keratin genes , i. e. it can convince the cells to produce more keratin, the super important structural protein in hair, nails and the outermost layer of the skin. Most often you will meet Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16 combined with Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 in eyelash growth products, as the two together can visibly increase eyelash length after two weeks.
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17	A five amino acid peptide (Lys-Leu-Ala-Lys-Lys) attached to the oil-soluble fatty acid, myristic acid for better bioavailability. It is known to significantly stimulate keratin genes , i. e. it can convince the cells to produce more keratin, the super important structural protein in hair, nails and the outermost layer of the skin. Most often you will meet Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 combined with Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16 in eyelash growth products, as the two together can visibly increase eyelash length after two weeks.
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate	A viscous oily liquid (ester) that is known for providing extraordinarily long-lasting coverage . It is used to enhance water resistance in sunscreen formulas or to give long-wear properties to makeup items such as lipsticks or smudge-proof mascaras.
Sodium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer	A pre-neutralised form of super common thickener and emulsion stabilizer, Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer . We have more info at Carbomer and Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer .
Human Adipose Derived Stem Cell Conditioned Media	If you see "some kind of cell conditioned media" on the ingredient list, it always means a Growth Factor Cocktail for your skin . In this case, we are talking about Adipose-Derived Stem Cells (ADSC), i.e. cells that differentiate later into fat cells. These cells are known to secrete various growth factors that have significant wound healing and antioxidant properties . If you are new to Growth Factors , they are medium long amino acid sequences (= small proteins = big peptides) that work as a cell signaling molecules to stimulate cell growth, proliferation, healing and/or differentiation . The whole Growth Factors and skincare topic is pretty big and somewhat confusing, so if you want to dip your toes into it, we have a shiny description at Epidermal Growth Factor , the first GF that found its way into cosmetic products and also at Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media , a GF Cocktail similar to this one, but coming from different type of cells.
Propane	The small sister of Butane (once carbon shorter chain length alkane), Propane is also a gas used as a propellant in cosmetic products.
Rutin	Rutin is a polyphenol flavonoid found in many plants, for example, citrus fruits. The main reason it's used in cosmetics is its high antioxidant and free radical-scavenging ability (similar to that of superstar ascorbic acid ), but also has some antibacterial nature and wound-healing properties. There is also an in-vitro (made in Petri dishes on animal cell lines) study showing potential for rutin as a skin-whitening agent and people have even tried using it to increase the UV-blocking ability of SPF agents, but with inconsistent results. Either way, its antioxidant abilities should still help protect the skin against sun damage from the UV light that isn’t blocked by SPF agents!
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract	The extract of Prickly Pear, a cactus that’s native to Mexico. Its main unique thing is that it can reduce the neurosensory irritation caused by the application of topical products such as retinoids (slow reaction) or alpha hydroxy acids (fast reaction). We have a shiny description about Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract here >>
Hydrolyzed Placental Protein	A chemically chopped up version of protein coming from bovine placenta (yes, it is an animal-derived ingredient). Proteins are long amino acid chains, so when you chop them up you get peptides (short amino-acid chains) and amino acids, nice molecules that are known as the "building blocks of life". In general, amino acids, peptides, and proteins are moisturizing, nourishing and regenerating ingredients when you smear them on your face, so is probably Hydrolyzed Placental Protein. According to manufacturer's information , it also works as a film forming, protecting and restructuring agent . Due to its high amino acid content, it improves surface hydration and elasticity and due to its larger peptide and protein molecules, it forms a nice film on the skin that reduces trans-epidermal-water-loss (i.e. hinders water evaporating out of the top layers of the skin). These effects help to maintain the water content of the skin cells and result in a healthy skin & nice complexion.
C15-19 Alkane	A nice-feeling, light emollient that makes the skin soft and smooth. It gives a fresh and gliding sensation with a powdery or soft after-feel depending on the exact grade used. It is a popular alternative to replace silicones. Chemically speaking, it is an alkane (stable, non-reacting hydrocarbon) that used to be produced from petrochemicals, but today's versions are typically vegetable based. It is readily biodegradable.
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer	Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer is a slightly tacky, glossy emollient that is commonly used in lip products as it is soluble in lip product's favorite oil, castor oil ; it sticks well to the skin (substantive) and gives a nice glossy appearance. It also often comes to the ingredient list (especially in non-lip products) combined with Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate and Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides; in this case, the trio serves as a vegetable lanolin alternative, bringing rich emollience to the formula.
Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide	A pseudo-ceramide that is similar to Ceramide 2 in structure and activity and is claimed to be a great ingredient for a healthy skin barrier or to repair damaged skin or hair. In general, Ceramides are super important lipids in the outer layer of the skin and we have written some more about them here >>
Ci 77510	An inorganic (as in no carbon in its molecule) pigment that has a very intense, dark blue color . It is not permitted in lip products in the US, and only the version Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide is permitted in the EU.
Eucalyptus Citriodora Oil	The essential oil coming from Eucalyptus Citriodora that has a surprisingly different chemical structure from the better known, and much more commonly used Eucalyptus Globulus essential oil . It contains hardly any eucalyptol (0.6%), but its main components are citronellal (85%) and limonene (15%) giving the oil a strong, fresh, sweet, and balsamic aroma . Its EU sensitizer total percentage is 20% , that counts as quite high so be careful with it if you have sensitive skin.
Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1	A three amino acid peptide where the famous collagen fragment, Tripeptide-1 , aka GHK is combined with Biotin , the well-known supplement for stronger nails and hairs. The result of the combination is Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, a peptide claimed to be helpful for reducing hair loss and for making the eyelashes appear longer, fuller, and stronger . As for proof, the manufacturer did some in-vitro (made in test tubes) studies that show that our molecule can promote hair bulb keratinocyte proliferation and also helps optimal hair anchorage by stimulating the synthesis and organization of the adhesion molecules laminin 5 and collagen IV. This means that our peptide might help the hair to be stronger and to stay longer in its place, though these are only in vitro results that might or might not translate to real-world use. As for a clinical, made on real people study, the manufacturer did one for eyelash growth with 30 volunteers. Using a mascara with 2% of SpecPed LashLD (trade name for the diluted, buyable version of Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1), the lashes got longer by 17% and thicker by 19% after 30 days.
Ethyl Menthane Carboxamide	A menthol derivative that gives a strong cooling effect on the skin (and in the mouth). But, unlike menthol , it is virtually nonvolatile, odorless and tasteless. It is often combined with other cooling agents such as Menthyl Lactate and/or Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide for even more cooling to make us think that the formula is hard-working. We have also bumped into a theory about skin cooling having some "secondary" anti-aging benefit by increasing the calcium ions in the skin. But, the referenced research is about sensory neurons in rats and extrapolating antiaging benefits from that and the general role of calcium in the skin seems pretty far-fetched to us.
Potassium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer	A pre-neutralised form of super common thickener and emulsion stabilizer, Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer . We have more info at Carbomer and Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer .
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters	Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters is the major component of a skin surface lipid mimetic mixture trade named L22. So what the heck is a skin surface lipid mimetic mixture? Let's start with skin surface lipids (SLSs): these are the oily substances that your skin produces (mainly the sebaceous glands, a smaller part comes from the epidermis) to keep the skin nice and moisturized. The main components are fatty acids (FAs), triglycerides, cholesterol, chole steryl esters, wax esters, and squalene. This mixture has a super important role in keeping the skin barrier healthy. So Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters is a jojoba and macadamia oil-derived ingredient that contains fatty acids, triglycerides, and wax esters. It comes to the formula with Squalene , Phytosteryl Macadamiate (botanical sourced version of cholesteryl ester) and Phytosterols (botanical version of cholesterol) in the ratios found in young, healthy adult skin. So the main skill of L22 is barrier repair and skin hydration and the manufacturer did several double-blind, vehicle-controlled studies to show it really works. It compared 3% of L22 with 3% of olive oil or 3% of caprylic/capric triglyceride alone or combined with Ceramide 2 in a vehicle. 60 minutes after the application, barrier recovery was by far the best by the L22 + Ceramide 2 (0.1%) combination , followed by L22 alone, and then by Olive + Ceramide 2 and Olive alone. Skin hydration was measured 4 hours after application and again, the L22 + Ceramide 2 combination performed the best followed by L22 alone. Another study compared 3% L22 with 3% petrolatum (the gold standard occlusive agent). After 1 hour, they performed similarly both for barrier repair and skin hydration, but after 2 weeks of use and a 1 week regression period, L22 showed significantly better results. So the bottom line is: if barrier repair is something that you are interested in, the skin surface lipids of L22 can definitely be worth a try. Even better, if the formula also contains Ceramide 2 .
Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract	The extract coming from a rare, blue-green algae that's touted to have retinoid-like effects but without the side effect. If you do not know what retinoids are, you are seriously missing out, please click here and catch up on the topic . To be more specific about the "retinoid-like effects", the manufacturer found that Lanablue (the trade name of this algae) affects gene expression (a fancy way of saying how an ingredient might influence how a skin cell produces different things such as proteins) and regulates epidermal differentiation (how skin cells at the bottom of the top layer of our skin replicate) similar to good-old retinol. However, that is only in-vitro (made in test-tubes) data, that may or may not happen on real human skin. As far as clinical data goes, the manufacturer did a 21 days study with 40 volunteers and found that 3% Lanablue showed a "clear reduction of the skin microrelief", or to say it in another way, it made the skin smoother . Based on the data we have seen, we think that "retinoid-like effects" claim for this algae is an exaggeration. If you are into retinol alternatives, Bakuchiol is a more promising molecule to check out.
Ci 77289	An inorganic (as in no carbon in its molecule, it is Cr2O3X(OH), the hydrated version of this guy ) pigment that gives blue-green shades . It is not permitted in lip products in the US.
Phytosteryl Macadamiate	Phytosteryl Macadamiate is the combination of phytosterol and fatty acids coming from Macadamia oil. It is a botanical version of cholesteryl esters found in skin surface lipids. It comes to the ingredient list as part of L22, a skin surface lipid mimetic whose main job is barrier repair and skin hydration .
Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate	Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate is an oil-like, emollient liquid that gives a cushiony feel to skin and make-up products. It has a good combination of rich feel, but good slip and low tack. It is also popular in lipsticks and lip glosses instead of lanolin or castor oil.

Subsets and Splits

No community queries yet

The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.