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Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters	A linoleic acid (aka omega-6 fatty acid) stabilized under a ceramide-like structure . It's a bioengineered ingredient obtained by solvent-free enzymatic synthesis from the linoleic-rich safflower oil . Omega-6 Ceramide is claimed to have barrier repairing (by increasing cellular cohesion) and skin soothing activity and is especially recommended for damaged skin.
Ci 77007	An inorganic (as in no carbon in its molecule) pigment that can range in shade from blue (most common) to violet, pink or even green. It is not permitted in lip products in the US.
Retinal	If you are reading here, we are pretty sure the words retinoids and retinol ring a bell, but if not, you are seriously missing out, please click here immediately to catch up . The TL;DR version is that retinoids are the royal family of skincare with tretinoin being the king , the only FDA-approved ingredient to treat the signs of photoaging. Retinol is like a grandkid, it has to be converted (through two steps) in the skin to become retinoic acid. The conversion means retinol is both less effective and less harsh on the skin. So where does our current molecule, Retinal, aka Retinaldehyde fit into the family (btw, here is a nice visual family tree about who is who )? Remember that retinol needed two conversion steps to become retinoic acid? Yes, you are right, Retinal is the intermediate step between retinoic acid and retinol , meaning it needs only one conversion step to become active in the skin. If we go with our royal family analogy, Retinal is Prince William, directly next in line to the throne. Once retinal is converted, it becomes retinoic acid and does the same things we detailed in our tretinoin description. In a nutshell, it is everything you expect from an anti-aging superstar such as decreased wrinkles, smoother, firmer and more elastic skin . This sounds good, but how does Retinal compare to retinoic acid? Good question! We found a study (a pretty good one with 125 patients) that compared 0.05% retinal with 0.05% retinoic acid (and vehicle). They concluded that " at week 18, a significant reduction of the wrinkle and roughness features was observed with both retinaldehyde and retinoic acid. " and the difference between the two was not statistically significant. (Interestingly, in both groups, the results were less significant at week 44, so it might be a good idea to have a retinoid break from time to time?) Also, our guy, Retinal was much better tolerated than retinoic acid known for its harshness. The good tolerability of retinal was also confirmed by another study that compared retinol (ROL), retinal (RAL) and retinoic acid (RA). They found that " the natural retinoids ROL and RAL do have a good tolerance profile, in contrast with the irritating potential of RA ", meaning retinal is an awesome alternative if you have irritation and flaking issues with prescription products , such as Retin-A. Last, but not least, we want to mention a pretty big (but subjectively evaluated), Avene (the French pharmacy brand famous for its Retinal products) sponsored study that examined the tolerability and efficacy of a 0.1 Retinal + 6% glycolic acid product in the treatment of acne . The product was added next to the standard anti-acne regimen of 1,709 patients for 90 days and the study concluded that the formula was both very well tolerated as well as effective next to other standard anti-acne medications such as benzoyl peroxide and antibiotics. Overall, if you are into retinoids, Retinal is a really awesome and well-proven member of the family that is absolutely worth trying.
Cypripedium Pubescens Extract	The extract coming from the roots of the Lady’s Slipper Orchid. There is not a ton of info out there about what it's doing in a cosmetic product, but according to a Fitoterapia review paper about orchids, it's an Indian folk medicine with muscle relaxant , hypnotic, nerve calming , sedative, and tonic properties . We also found a patent that confirms Lady's Slipper Orchid as a muscle relaxant, it's official CosIng function is tonic ("produces a feeling of well-being on skin"), and MakingCosmetics says it's soothing.
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract	The extract derived from Prickly Pear, a cactus native to Mexico. It is well-known for its soothing and hydrating properties . Read our shiny explanation about Opuntia Ficus-Indica here >>
Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate	A coconut or palm kernel oil derived, fast spreading emollient liquid that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It is mild for sensitive skin, leaves a light and dry skin feel and is readily biodegradable.
Madecassoside	One of the main biologically active components of the famous medicinal plant, Centella Asiatica, aka Gotu Kola . It has well established wound healing, skin-soothing and antioxidant activities . There is also a study by La Roche Posay (belongs to L'Oreal) that examined the anti-aging effects of 5% Vitamin C combined with 0.1% Madecassoside . They mention that " Madecassoside is known to induce collagen expression and ⁄ or to modulate inflammatory mediators thus might prevent and correct some signs of aging. " The surprisingly long, 6-month study observed " significant improvement of the clinical score for deep and superficial wrinkles, suppleness, firmness, roughness, and skin hydration ", but Vitamin C in itself is already an anti-aging superstar, so it is hard to know how much Madecassoside did. Another promising property of Madecassoside is that it seems to inhibit UV-induced melanin synthesis (test formula with 0.05% MA, used twice a day on 23 volunteers for 8 weeks ), making it a great active for hyperpigmentation-prone skin. If that would not be enough, the French manufacturer (Seppic) also has encouraging in-vivo studies on the molecule. Used at 0.2%, Madecassoside reduces redness and peeling in skin with light atopic dermatitis as well as itching in psoriasis-prone skin. If you are into Gotu Kola, read more here >>
Propylheptyl Caprylate	A crystal clear, oily liquid that makes your skin nice and smooth, aka emollient . It is fast-spreading and leaves a luxurious, silky-soft after-feel . It is also ideal for sunscreen products as it can enhance the solubility of crystalline UV filters.
Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccinate	A high-performance emulsifier that helps water and oil to nicely mix together. It has exceptional stabilizing power and can be used in all kinds of formulas including hard to create sunscreens.
Acetyl Octapeptide-3	A newer and, molecule-wise, somewhat bigger version of the famous "Botox-like" peptide called Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 or Argireline . Just like Argireline, Acetyl Octapeptide-3 is also claimed to influence the muscle contraction process that results in a more relaxed and line-free face, especially around the forehead and the eyes. While Argireline counts as a pretty well-proven peptide, with multiple studies confirming its anti-wrinkle efficacy, we cannot say the same for Acetyl Octapeptide-3. What we have is the manufacturer's claim that comparing 10% Argireline with 10% SNAP-8 solution (that means 0.005% pure peptide powder) the SNAP-8 peptide did a bit better as it reduced wrinkles by 34.98% vs 27.05% reduction for Argireline (twice a day use for 28 days on 17 women). Other than that, we can write here pretty much the same as at Argireline. Obviously, no peptide works as effectively as real Botox, and the Botox-inspired peptides are quick fixes rather than being collagen builders or real preventers of structural aging. They are nice additions to an anti-aging skincare routine but not the real superstars (think vitamin C , AHAs or retinol ).
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil	The golden yellow oil coming from the Macadamia nut, a native Australian nut. Similar to other plant oils, it's loaded with emollient and nourishing fatty acids . It's a high oleic acid oil (50-67% oleic acid and only 0-5% linoleic acid) that makes it very emollient and ideal for dry skin types . Its unique property is that it contains high amounts of a rare fatty acid called palmitoleic acid (12-25%) that give Macadamia oil a "cushiony" feel . It's also easily absorbed and makes the skin soft and supple.
Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil/Glucose/Glycine Soja Meal/Malt Extract/Yeast Extract Ferment Filtrate	A so-called "Fermentoil" that is created by fermenting plant oils with Pseudozyma bacteria . These bacteria produce enzymes that break down oil components increasing the "nutritional value" of the oil . More specifically, Fermentoils tend to have much larger free fatty acid content (in normal oils fatty acids are bound to a glycerin molecule and form a so-called triglyceride) and also somewhat increased antioxidant values. They are also more cosmetically elegant , meaning that they are absorbed into the skin faster, have a less greasy skin feel and, for the joy of the cosmetic chemists, they are also easier to emulsify. This long-named guy, Fermentoil Green Tea Seed is claimed not only to contain an increased amount of free fatty acids but also antioxidant vitamin E and polyphenols. It has moisturizing, antioxidant, antiseptic , fungicidal and bactericidal properties and the manufacturer recommends it for oily and acne prone skin types.
Methylheptyl Laurate	A coconut-derived, ultra-light ester oil that gives excellent slip and emolliency to the products.
Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides	Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides is a blend of fatty acid mono and diesters (kind of like an oil molecule but not with three but only one or two fatty acid chains on the glycerin) that exists in lots of versions. It can be a consistency-giving wax (think something like glyceryl stearate ), or it can be a rich jelly emollient that acts as a petrolatum alternative.
Menthone Glycerin Acetal	An oil-soluble cooling agent that gives a similar cooling and freshness sensation as Menthol (1% of Menthone Glycerin Acetal vs 0.5% of Menthol). The recommended usage range is 0.1-2%, and the formula pH has to be higher than 6.5.
Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate	A mild and gentle cleansing agent derived from the amino acid sarcosine and coconut fatty acids. It is known for its good foam boosting abilities and improving the mildness of the formula.
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate	A vegetable-based, PEG-free ingredient whose job is to help water and oil to mix nicely together (emulsifier). It is created by attaching ten water-loving glycerin molecules with the oil-loving fatty acid, stearic acid . The result is a partly water- and partly oil-loving molecule that creates stable and smooth emulsions that are also cosmetically elegant. It also has some moisturizing and softening benefits for skin and hair.
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate	A versatile and biodegradable cleansing agent with high cleaning power and strong foaming properties. Unfortunately, these two properties for a surfactant usually mean that it is harsh on the skin, which is the case here as well.
Cetyl Phosphate	A white to beige powder that helps oil and water to mix nicely together (aka oil in water emulsifier ). It is a good emulsifier choice for stable water-resistant sunscreen formulas.
Sodium Dehydroacetate	A helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka preservative . It works mainly against fungi and has only milder effect against bacteria. It is Ecocert and Cosmos approved, and is popular in natural products.
Aluminum Hydroxide	Officially, CosIng (the official EU ingredient database) lists Aluminum Hydroxide 's functions as opacifying (making the product white and non-transparent), as well as emollient and skin protectant . However, with a little bit of digging, it turns out Aluminum Hyroxide often moonlights as a protective coating for UV filter superstar Titanium Dioxide . Specifically, it protects our skin from the harmful effects of nasty Reactive Oxygen Species (free radicals derived from oxygen such as Superoxide and Hydrogen Peroxide) generated when Titanium Dioxide is exposed to UV light. Btw, chlorine in swimming pool water depletes this protective coating, so one more reason to reapply your sunscreen after a dip in the pool on holiday. Other than that, Aluminum Hydroxide also often shows up in composite pigment technologies where it is used the other way around (as the base material and not as the coating material) and helps to achieve higher color coverage with less pigment .
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract	The extract coming from ginger , the lovely spice that we all know from the kitchen. It is also a medicinal plant used both in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine for pretty much everything you can imagine (muscular pain, sore throat, nausea, fever or cramps, just to give a few examples). As for ginger and skincare, the root extract contains the biologically active component called gingerol that has potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties . Combined with Bisabolol , the duo works synergistically to sooth the skin and take down redness. Other than that, ginger also contains moisturizing polysaccharides, amino acids, and sugars , and it is also quite well known to increase blood circulation and have a toning effect. Last but not least, Ginger also has some volatile, essential oil compounds (1-3%). Those are mostly present in ginger oil , but small amounts might be in the extract as well ( around 0.5% based on manufacturer info ).
Disodium EDTA	Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time . It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. It is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1% or less.
Methyl Trimethicone	Methyl Trimethicone is a very light, volatile silicone (it evaporates from the skin rather than absorbs into it) that's similar to super commonly used Cyclopentasiloxane but it dries even faster when applied to the skin.
Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide	An amino acid (L-Glutamic acid) based oil gelling agent that magically turns liquid oils into nice gels. Often used togeather with fellow amino-acid based oil gelling agent, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide .
Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate	Though its name does not reveal it, this molecule is a relative of famous IT-moisturizer, Hyaluronic Acid . Just like HA, it is a glycosaminoglycan (aka GAG), meaning that it is a big sugar molecule from repeated subunits (what's more, one of the subunits is the same, glucuronic acid). Along with HA and other GAGs, it likes to hang out in the dermis (middle) layer of the skin where it is part of the gooey, bouncy stuff outside of the cells called extracellular matrix (ECM). As for skincare, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate is probably too big to go right into the dermis (though much smaller than HA with 5000-50 000 Da molecular weight), but it has a comparable water binding ability to HA (which means a crazy water binding ability) and better affinity for the skin surface . This means that it forms a nice, water-rich film on the skin bringing an immediate and strong moisturising effect.
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PVP Crosspolymer	A polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) that improves the film-forming and aesthetic (no tacky after-feel) properties of sunscreen formulas . It also boosts SPF values, in some cases by as much as 70%, at least according to the manufacturer .
No Title	The trade name of the algae extract coming from the green micro-algae called Dunaliella salina . It's claimed to have " outstanding skin energizing properties" and to be able to give a "radiant and luminous looking skin". Read way more about Algae Extracts in cosmetics here >>
Glycol Distearate	A so-called diester created from two stearic acid molecules and an ethylene glycol molecule. Its main thing is being an opacifier and pearling agent in cleansing products making them white and glossy. It can also give body to creams and emulsions.
Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide	An amino acid ( L-Glutamic acid) based oil gelling agent that magically turns liquid oils into nice gels.
Homosalate	An oil-soluble chemical sunscreen agent that protects the skin from UVB (295-315 nm) with a peak protection at 306 nm. Homosalate is not a strong UV filter in and of itself (gives only SPF 4.3 protection at max. allowed 10% concentration) and it is not photostable (looses 10% of its SPF protection in 45 mins) so it always has to be combined with other sunscreens for proper protection. Its big advantage, though, is that it is a liquid and is excellent for dissolving other hard to solubilize powder sunscreen agents, like the famous Avobenzone . Regarding Homosalate's safety profile, we do not have the best news. In-vitro (made in the labs) studies have shown that it might have some estrogenic activity. Do not panic, these studies were not conducted on real humans under real world conditions. Still, if you are a 'better safe than sorry' type, be careful when using Homosalate containing sunscreens long-term and full-body. As of 2020, Homosalate is permitted to be used up to 10% in the EU and 15% in the US, but the EU is currently considering restricting it to only 1.4% (probably taking effect from 2022).
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate	PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is a popular water-in-oil (w/o) emulsifier , meaning that it helps the oily and watery parts of the formula to mix in a way where water droplets are dispersed in the continuous oil phase and not the other way round. Compared to the more commonly used oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions, w/o emulsions tend to be heavier and less cosmetically elegant, but PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is claimed to help with this and enables a light and elegant skin feel . It also has a molecular structure that creates large anchors both in the water and in the oil phase making the resulting emulsion not only cosmetically elegant but also very stable.
Diethylhexyl Carbonate	A very low viscosity and high spreadability emollient fluid that gives a nice light skin feel. It can also be used to solubilize crystalline actives such as chemical UV filters.
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate	A soft, mild cleansing agent with amphoteric structure meaning that its head contains both a positively and a negatively charged part (surfactants are most commonly anionic meaning their head has a negative charge). It also has great foaming abilities and is recommended for baby products and other non-irritating cleansers.
Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate	A clear, colorless liquid that gives advanced protection for the skin lipids and truly photostabilizes UV filters , at least according to its manufacturer . It's as effective of an antioxidant as pure Vitamin E, aka tocopherol and as stable as its esterified version tocopheryl acetate . It's claimed to efficiently and continuously work over 24 hours by a continuous three-phase mechanism: it dims oxidative stress, builds up protection from ROS (evil free radicals) and prevents the formation of further reactive species. If that would not be enough, it also seems to be a promising ingredient for acne prevention . In an in-vivo test on 22 volunteers, a 2% Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate formula decreased skin oiliness by 20% after 8 weeks of treatment, and skin inflammation and redness also improved by 25%.
Ci 75120	A natural, soluble colorant (aka dye) that comes from the seeds of the annatto bush. It gives an orange hue .
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer	Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer is the fancy word for a common polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits), namely polyacrylic acid (aka carbomer when it comes to cosmetics) with glycerin attached to it in some places. The main thing of this polymer is that it forms a hydrogel (trade named Lubrajel) that can sit on top of the skin and provide moisturizing, water-soluble ingredients such as glycerin to the skin . Think of it as a very thin, wet sponge that a cosmetic manufacturer can fill with good ingredients for your skin. It also works as a thickening agent (remember, it is a carbomer type of molecule), and can provide the skin with a nice slippery feel. It can also draw water to the skin (thank you, pendant glycerol groups!), providing skin hydration. Also, don’t let people scare you into thinking polyacrylic acid is dangerous because of the toxicity of acrylic acid. Since acrylic acid is dangerous due to its ability to absorb into the skin (since it’s small), when you chain them together into a polymer (which is big), this danger is no longer significant.
Arnica Montana Extract	A nice yellow flower living in the mountains that's famously used to treat bruisings. Its role in skincare is questionable though. Read more here >>
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate	A glycerin-derived gentle cleansing agent that is described as being skin and eye-friendly, and not leaving the skin dry or tight. It's also used as a co-emulsifier or solubilizer that helps to blend small amounts of oily things into water-based products.
Citrus Nobilis Oil	The essential oil coming from the whole plant of the Mandarin Orange . In general, the main component of citrus oils is limonene , a super common fragrant ingredient that makes everything smell nice (but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer). The majority of the essential oil is in the peel , but the leaf also contains some with slightly different chemical composition. Both the peel and the leaf oil contains some phototoxic compounds (the leaf oil contains methyl-N-methyl anthranilate), so it's a good idea not to use Mandarin Orange Oil containing products during the day.
Methoxycinnamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine	A colorless, odorless liquid that works as a water-soluble UVB filter with a peak protection of 306 nm. Chemical sunscreen agents are typically oil-soluble so being water-soluble is unique and it makes it possible to create cosmetically elegant, non-oily, non-tacky, silky and smooth feeling formulas. It is also used as a color protectant in hair care formulations . We could not figure out its regulatory status as a sunscreen agent, though. Its manufacturer only says it's registered "as a new cosmetic ingredient in the EU", but it is probably not an officially approved sunscreen filter (yet).
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil	The essential oi l coming from the rind of the grapefruit . In general, the main component of citrus peel oils is limonene (86-95% for grapefruit peel), a super common fragrant ingredient that makes everything smell nice (but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer). Other than that, citrus peel also contains the problematic compound called furanocoumarin that makes them mildly phototoxic . In general, the more sour-bitter the fruit, the more problematic it is regarding phototoxicity: orange and clementine peel contain less of it while lemon, grapefruit, and bergamot contain some more. Be careful with it if it is in a product for daytime use.
Schisandra Sphenanthera Fruit Extract	A species of Schisandra berry that's used as a traditional Chinese Medicine for thousands of years. According to manufacturer info , it's used for stressed, sensitive and hyper reactive skin and has anti-irritant, anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory properties. A research paper we found on Schisandra does confirm that the fruit has antioxidant properties, and is traditionally used to treat and prevent hyperproliferative and inflammatory skin diseases (like psoriasis).
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil	Read more about lavender essential oil in cosmetics here >>
Caramel	The caramel in cosmetics is pretty much the same one that you know from the kitchen. It is derived by controlled heat treatment of food-grade carbohydrates (sugars) and works as a brown colorant .
Diheptyl Succinate	Diheptyl Succinate is a natural, "silicone-alternative" emollient that usually comes to the formula with Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer . The two together is trade-named LexFeel N and depending on their ratio, the duo can mimic both super light, Cyclomethicone -type skin feel as well as more viscous Dimethicone like skin feel. The duo also plays well with pure natural oils, and it can reduce their greasiness and tackiness and make them feel nicer on the skin. LexFeel N is also very eco-friendly, 100% natural (Ecocert approved) , sustainable and biodegradable.
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer	The friend of Diheptyl Succinate as the duo is usually used together and is touted as a natural silicone alternative . Read more there >>
Ectoin	Ectoin is a surprisingly well-researched, multi-functional active that can do from pollution & light protection to skin hydration, soothing , and barrier repair , several things to your skin. It is an extremolyte , a small stress-protection molecule that protects microorganisms living under extreme conditions such as salt lakes, hot springs, arctic ice, the deep sea, or deserts. It was discovered in 1985 in a microorganism living in a salt lake in the Egyptian desert. The key skill of Ectoin is protection that applies also to the skin. Its main mode of action is binding water molecules (aka kosmotropic) and creating hydro complexes. These complexes then surround important biomolecules (e.g. cells, proteins, enzymes) and form a stabilizing hydration shell around them. This protection mechanism means good things when it comes to our skin: Ectoin has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, pollution& light protecting, skin hydrating, barrier repairing as well as anti-aging properties. A placebo-controlled 10-person study examined a four-week treatment with 0.5% Ectoin in the crow's feet area and found a significant anti-wrinkle effect (-19% mean wrinkle depth) in 100% of the participants. Another double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study with 24 participants used a 2% Ectoin cream twice a day for 4 weeks and found an improvement in all of the measured parameters, such as wrinkle volume, skin scaling, roughness, and elasticity. Another remarkable property of Ectoin is protecting the epidermal immune cells called Langerhans cells from UV damage . 0.3% and 0.5% Ectoin cream was used twice a day for 14 days on the forearm and then irradiated with 1.5 MED UV (one and a half times the UV dose that causes detectable redness). While the untreated, UV-stressed area showed a 40% decrease in viable Langerhans cells, 0.5% Ectoin showed 100% protection (and 0.3% showed ~95% protection). The soothing efficacy is also backed up by multiple in-vivo studies. A 20-person study compared 1% Ectoin cream to 0.25% hydrocortisone treatment on surfactant irritated skin and found similar effectiveness in reducing skin redness. Another study with 23 females with sensitive skin found that a 1% Ectoin cream helped to tolerate a 0.5% or 1% retinol treatment much better. A tiny, 5-person study examined the long-term (7 days) skin hydration effect of 1% Ectoin. During the study, hydration levels increased up to 200% compared to placebo, and even 7 days after stopping the treatment hydration status was largely preserved. Higher concentration (5-7%) Ectoin treatments are also used as OTC medical products for the treatment of eczema or atopic skin. The anti-pollution magic properties are also well-established and Ectoin is currently the only anti-pollution active ingredient approved for use in medical products (e.g. inhalation solutions) in Europe. Clinical studies showed a reduction of inflammations in human lungs of patients with COPD (a pulmonary disease) and pollution-induced asthma. But coming back to the skin, Ectoin protects both from PMs (Particulate Matters, including ultrafine) as well as PAHs ( Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons ) and heavy metals. If that weren't enough, Ectoin is also shown to protect the skin from blue and visible light, and pigmentation resulting from environmental stress (think UV, pollution, oxidative stress). All in all, we think Ectoin is one of those under-the-radar actives that deserves more hype than it is currently getting. As an amazing all-around skin protectant , it is a useful addition to any skincare routine.
Drometrizole Trisiloxane	A L'Oréal-group exclusive sunscreen agent that was invented in 1999 and is commonly called Mexoryl XL. It is an oil-soluble, photostable chemical sunscreen with both UVB and UVA protection with peak absorbance at 303 nm (UVB) and at 344 nm (UVA).
Butane	A colorless and odorless gas used as a propellant in cosmetic products that come in a spray form.
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters	A natural emulsifier that helps oil and water to nicely mix together. It is claimed to bring a silicone-feel to natural formulations and to give an ultra-soft texture and cushion touch . It is a natural wax derivative (from rice bran, candelilla, and jojoba waxes) that also has some moisturizing properties as it can retain 6 times its own weight in water, forming a water cushion on the skin.
Raspberry Seed Oil/Tocopheryl Succinate Aminopropanediol Esters	This long-named thing comes from the enzymatic biocatalysis of Raspberry Seed Oil and a Vitamin E derivative and is claimed by its manufacturer to be able to repair injured skin and restore a healthy barrier function (so that the skin is healthy and hydrated again). The manufacturer did some in-vivo (made on real people) studies to show that 1% Vitaskin-E cream did indeed decrease Trans-Epidermal-Water-Loss and reduced cracks and scales on dry lips better than placebo.
Steareth-2	A waxy solid material that helps oil and water to mix together, aka emulsifier . It is derived from the fatty alcohol, stearyl alcohol by ethoxylating it and thus making the molecule a little water-soluble. This version has only a small amount of ethoxylation and thus the molecule is still largely oil soluble. It is often mixed with more water-soluble emulsifiers (such as Steareth-20 ) to create stable emulsion systems.
Soluble Collagen	Soluble Collagen refers to the big, natural collagen molecules mostly extracted from fish or bovine skin . Spotting collagen on the ingredient list, you might think that, aha , this must be there to supplement the collagen content of our own skin, but you have to know that collagen is a huge-huge molecule that cannot absorb to the middle layer of the skin where collagen is and even if it could, it cannot just magically go the right places to become part of the skin's own collagen network. Putting collagen on your skin for anti-aging purposes is like throwing tent poles onto a ramshackle tent and expecting the tent to magically become nice and firm again. The strong point of collagen is being a large molecule with tremendous water binding capacity , i.e. an amazing humectant and moisturizer . It produces a water-rich film on the skin giving the stratum corneum (the uppermost layer of the skin) great hydration, making it nice and smooth and reducing trans-epidermal-water loss (the process of water evaporating out of your skin). It is also so gentle and non-irritant that it can actually be used in cleansers to reduce the irritating potential of harsh surfactants , aka cleansing agents. If you are fine with animal-derived ingredients and know that collagen in a jar has nothing to do with wrinkles but everything to do with skin hydration , Soluble Collagen is a nice ingredient.
C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters	A clear, pale yellow oil-like liquid that's claimed to be similar to the lipids that are naturally in the outermost layer of the skin. It's not only similar to them but it is also biomimetic, meaning that it can mimic the functionality of our skin lipids . The skin lipids play a super important role in maintaining a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin nice and moisturized and not dry or cracked. So C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, aka Super Sterol Liquid can do something similar: it is an extremely efficient emollient that can repair even dry hands or cracked lips and it is great at maintaining a healthy skin barrier. A goodie for super dry skin.
Hexylresorcinol	A molecule that is naturally present in the bran of rye and other cereals. It has been used for a long time in the food industry as an "anti-browning agent" for fresh-cut fruits or shrimps. It turns out that Hexylresorcinol works as an "anti-browning agent" also in cosmetic products. It is a pretty well-researched molecule with significant tyrosinase (the famous enzyme needed to produce melanin) inhibiting abilities . The clinical study of the manufacturer showed that 0.5% Hexylresorcinol has a comparable skin-lightening effect to gold-standard, 2% Hydroquinone. Even better, a 12-weeks, double-blind, placebo-controlled study with 65 volunteers confirmed the effectiveness of our skin-lightening molecule and it measured an average of 88% skin-lightening improvement . The study also included before and after photos (always a good sign!) and the skin-lightening was indeed visible and significant (though the pigmentation spots did not completely disappear, just so you have realistic expectations).
Glyceryl Laurate	A glycerin and lauric acid derived multi-functional ingredient that works as a co-emulsifier (helps water and oil to mix together next to other emulsifiers), emollient (makes skin nice and smooth) and anti-microbial agent (preservative booster). It also has some thickening and refatting properties in cleansing formulas.
Tetrapeptide-17	A peptide sequence based on skin's own structure that's claimed to minimize the appearance of wrinkles , boost collagen production and reduce skin roughness.
Oligopeptide-68	A skin-brightening peptide that is claimed to have a unique mechanism of action on lightening both constitutive (our default skin color) and facultative (such as tanning) pigmentation. It works by inhibiting the MITF gene that plays an important role in controlling melanin producing skin cells called melanocytes. In the in-vivo (made on real people) test of the manufacturer, 23 Asian volunteers used a 5% ß-White formula for 56 days twice a day and 87% reported a more uniform skin tone and 91% felt that their skin was brighter than before. As for research, we found one study from 2016 that combined Oligopeptide-68 with sunscreen and another skin-lightening active called Diacetyl Boldine (DAB). The conclusion was that "combination of DAB serum at night and DAB/TGF-β1 biomimetic oligopeptide-68/sunscreen cream in the morning and at noon was effective and safe for facial melasma . They were superior to HQ in pigment reduction." HQ refers to the famous Hydroquinone that's the gold-standard skin-lightening ingredient, so having comparable or superior results is a very promising outcome. Overall , if you are into skin-lightening or fading pigmentation spots, Oligopeptide-68 might be something to try.
Algin	A large sugar molecule (aka polysaccharide) that's used as a gelling agent and comes from brown seaweed. Combined with calcium salts, it forms a rigid gel used in "rubber masks".
Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3	A four amino acid, biomimetic (i.e. a molecule in nature is copied synthetically in a lab) peptide that copies a growth factor that boosts the production of key components of the dermal-epidermal junction (the place where the top two layers of the skin meet). These key components are important skin-structure giving proteins such as collagen VII, laminin-5, and fibronectin. What this means in practice, and according to the in-vivo (made on people) tests of the manufacturer , is that Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3 might be able to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles . The clinical study had 27 volunteers who used a 2.5% ChroNOline (the diluted and trade named version of our peptide molecule) cream twice a day and the researchers measured a 16% percent reduction in fine lines and wrinkles after 28 days. In mature volunteers (aged 50-65 ), the improvement continued to a reduction of 27% after 56 days.
Zinc Gluconate	If you are fighting acne and have looked into oral supplements, chances are that zinc gluconate sounds familiar to you. It is a zinc salt that has research proving it to be effective against inflammatory acne , though not quite as effective as the antibiotic minocycline (31.2% vs. 63.4% success rate). However, zinc supplements are easily available, have little-to-no side effects, so supplementing them with a 30mg per day dose can still be a good idea. As for smearing zinc gluconate all over your face, it is also not a bad idea. Zinc has multiple magic abilities: it is antibacterial (including evil, acne-causing P. acnes) and sebum-regulating (5α-reductase inhibitor), great for acne-prone skin types. It also stimulates antioxidant enzyme systems (mainly superoxide dismutase ) and has nice wound healing abilities acting mainly in the first, proliferation phase. So great for skin types in need of healing and soothing. What about the gluconate part? It is there to promote the absorption and bioavailability of zinc and also plays a role in cellular regeneration (involved in the synthesis of ribose sugars, structural components of DNA and RNA).
Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer	This long-named thing is a big molecule that works as a film-forming and viscosity controlling agent . It often comes together with Polysilicone-11 , a silicone elastomer to create "water-coated silicone technology" that makes the incorporation of oil-loving silicone elastomers easy into water-based formulas.
Melaleuca Leucadendron Cajuputi Leaf Oil	The essential oil coming from a tree that belongs to the same family as more skincare-famous Melaleuca Alternifolia, aka Tea Tree . The main component of the Cajeput Oil is 1,8-Cineole (about 65%), that has antiviral, antimicrobial as well as penetration enhancer abilities. On the con side, topical use of 1,8-Cineole has local irritant properties and can induce edema so the pros might not worth the cons especially if your skin is sensitive.
Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/Leaf Oil	The essential oil coming from the Manuka tree native to New Zealand. It is distantly related to the Australian Tea Tree Oil , although their chemical composition is very different. The main antibacterial active in tea tree oil is terpinen-4- ol (40%), while manuka's main actives are so-called cyclic triketones, such as Leptospermone, Iso-leptospermone, and Flavesone (20-30%). Both oils are antibacterial and antifungal but in different ways. While tea tree oil is a pretty well established anti-acne ingredient, manuka has more of a "might be useful" status for problem skin. Its strong suit is treating fungal infections such as athlete's foot, nail bed infections or foot odor. Other than that, manuka can help to relax muscles (useful for treating muscle and joint pain) and also has some antioxidant activity.
Sorbitan Caprylate	A handy multi-functional helper ingredient that helps water and oil to mix (aka emulsifier ), helps to thicken up a formula and boosts the effectiveness of traditional preservatives .
No Title	The trade name for a peptide complex that is claimed to "boost the dermal-epidermal junction" (DEJ) and thus result in firmer and younger looking skin.
Hesperidin	Hesperidin is an active compound coming from the peel and membranes of citrus fruits. It is a flavonoid with small but promising studies showing antiinflammatory, antioxidant, skin-brightening and skin barrier repairing activities.
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate	A mild, corn-sugar derived, oil-loving emulsifier that helps oil and water to mix nicely together . It is safe for sensitive skin or eye-care formulations and gives a light, satiny after-feel. It is often used together with its water-loving buddy Peg-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate .
Hexyl Laurate	A fast spreading emollient ester (hexyl alcohol + lauric acid) that's used in water in oil emulsions or in water-free formulas. It gives a light skin feel.
Snail Egg Extract	The extract coming from the eggs of the garden snail, or Cornu aspersum. When it comes to snails and cosmetics, the snail slime is a pretty common ingredient that does have nice repair and hydration properties. As for the eggs extract, a study from 2015 examined it in vitro (in the lab, not on real people!) and found promising skin regenerative properties . More specifically, snail eggs extract seem to promote the production of extracellular matrix components (fibronectin, collagen 1 and MMPs) and it also seems to improve the cell survival after UVB irradiation. The results from the study are promising but do not forget that it's in-vitro so it may or may not apply when we slather snail eggs extract on our face.
Polygonum Aviculare Extract	A flavonoid-rich plant extract coming from knotgrass that is claimed to protect the skin from both UV and Infrared damage . By now it's pretty well-known that UV-light is the number one external skin-aging factor, however, sigh it looks like UV is not the only kind of light that causes bad things to happen to the skin. Infrared light (760 nm to 1 mm) is the spectral band above visible light and there is some research concluding that it can accelerate skin aging via multiple mechanisms, one of them being the stimulation of the production of evil collagen-destroying enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases (MMP). Therefore, protecting the skin from infrared light is probably a meaningful thing to do even though there are currently no proven ways to do so. As for Knotgrass Extract, we only have the manufacturer's claim that says it can inhibit Cathepsin G, an enzyme involved in photoaging and thus modulating the origin of sun and infrared induced MMP production. The manufacturer also did in-vivo tests to show that a 2% Elix-IR lotion, used twice a day for 28 days can increase skin firmness (by 11.9%) and elasticity (by 4.8%) and visibly reduce the appearance of wrinkles (by 20%) and smoothes the surface of the skin.
Cocamide MEA	A cleansing agent whose main thing is adding viscosity and foam to cleansing formulas . Chemically speaking, it is the little sister of Cocamide DEA and has similar properties to that guy. However, being a mono ethanolamine instead of di ethanolamine has the advantage that the nitrosamine-concern does not apply for Cocamide MEA.
Cetearyl Nonanoate	A waxy solid material (the ester of nonanoic acid and cetearyl alcohol) that makes your skin nice and smooth, aka an emollient . It is also claimed to give extra hydration to the skin and give formulas velvety and silky feeling. It is solid at room temperature but melts on contact with the skin.
Xanthophyll	A fat-soluble carotenoid pigment that can be found in dark green vegetables such as spinach, cabbage or broccoli, as well as in colorful vegetables and fruits such as corn, oranges, or peaches. It has significant antioxidant properties when taken orally or applied topically. According to the manufacturer's claims , Lutein is much more than just a simple antioxidant. It also increases skin hydration and elasticity and absorbs potentially harmful blue light (the one at 400-500 nm also called high energy visible light, aka HEV light). Whether HEV light is bad for the skin or not remains to be seen , but Lutein, being an awesome antioxidant, is a nice addition to any cosmetic product even if HEV-protection turns out to be a fad.
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2	A 3 amino-acid peptide that works by inhibiting the production of progerin, a cell-aging accelerator protein. The manufacturer claims that Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2 can bring back cell activity to a 20-year-old young cell level and the ingredient can nicely increase skin elasticity, firmness and reduce skin-sagging . In their in-vivo (made on real people) tests, they found that 2% Progeline cream can lift the sagging jaw-line by up to 10% in 56 days and improve skin elasticity and firmness by about 20% in 28 days.
Ci 75470	Carmine is a natural pigment that gives a bright, strawberry red shade . It counts as a special snowflake as it is the only organic pink/red colorant permitted for use around the eye area in the US. Outside of the US though, it is not that often used, as unlike most other colorants (that tend to be synthetic or if natural, plant-derived), Carmine is animal-derived and comes from an insect called Coccus cacti . This makes it both very expensive and excludes it from animal-friendly, vegan cosmetic products.
Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer	Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer is a big molecule created from repeating subunits (aka polymer) used as a film-former . It is great at improving the water and wear resistance of sunscreens and makeup products.
Collagen	The big and important protein molecule that usually comes from animal skin such as fish or bovine. The gist of the "collagen in topical skincare" subject is to know that collagen in a jar has nothing to do with wrinkles but everything to do with skin hydration . We have a shiny explanation about this at soluble collagen, so click here to read more >>
Onsen-Sui	Hot spring water from Japan. It's claimed to have some anti-inflammatory and vasodilative effect .
Methyl Gluceth-10	A pale yellow, corn-derived liquid that works as a humectant ingredient helping the skin to cling onto water. It has a smooth, silky feel and can reduce the tackiness of other humectants.
Stearyl Heptanoate	A solid emollient that melts at skin temperature and gives a silky but non-oily skin-feel.
Phenoxyethyl Caprylate	An almost water light emollient liquid that works especially great in sunscreen formulas . It gives a pleasant non-oily and non-tacky skin-feel, helps to solubilize chemical UV filters, and has a slight SPF boosting effect.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate	Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate is a probiotic ingredient with soothing and maybe some anti-aging properties. It is produced by promoting Lactobacillus bulgaricus cells to secrete stress response elements. The secretion is then isolated and extracted from the live bacteria cell and voila, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate. As for what it does in a cosmetic product, the manufacturer did several in-vitro (made in tubes) and one in-vivo (made on people) study. The in-vitro studies found plenty of good things: Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate promoted oxygen uptake, collagen production, and ATP (the energy molecule in our body) synthesis in test tubes , however, these things might or might not happen when we smear it onto our faces. The only in-vivo, aka made on people study shows that our probiotic guy has some nice soothing and anti-irritant props . Though it was done only with 5 people, 5% of Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate showed a 47% reduction in redness.
Oleth-3 Phosphate	A partly water, partly oil soluble molecule created by the attachment of (ethoxylated) oleyl alcohol (oil-soluble part) and phosphoric acid (water-soluble part). It works as an emulsifier helping water and oil to mix and as a dispersing agent helping insoluble solid particles (such as mineral UV filters or pigments) to be evenly dispersed in cosmetic formulas.
Poloxamer 407	A synthetic big copolymer molecule that is used mainly as a solubilizer (make small amounts of oil-loving things soluble in water-based formulas) and gelling agent . In general, poloxamers are interesting big molecules composed of three blocks: the middle block is an oil-loving part (from propylene oxide units, if you're into chemistry), while the left and right blocks are two water-loving parts (from ethylene oxide units). This means that poloxamers are partly water and partly oil soluble and thus they are surface active agents acting as emulsifiers and/or cleansers . The size of both the oil and water-soluble part can vary, and the numbers in the name of the molecule refer to both the overall size of the whole molecule and to the ratio of the water-soluble part. This particular guy, Poloxamer 407, is a big one with significant water-soluble part (70%) hence it works as a solubilizer to make small amounts of oil-loving ingredients (such as essential oils) soluble in water-based formulas. It is also the best gelling and body giving agent out of the poloxamers commonly used in cosmetic products.
Silica Silylate	A handy white powder that likes to absorb oily things. It has great oil and sebum absorption (aka mattifying) abilities and can also act as a thickening agent in the oil phase of a formula.
Ci 77163	Bismuth Oxychloride has been around since the 1950s and it was one of the first synthetic materials to give a pearl-like effect in cosmetic products. It is a white powder with a fabulous sheen and a nice skin feel and it is still very popular in decorative cosmetics. It has one major drawback: it is sensitive to light. Upon prolonged UV exposure, it can lose its sheen and become gray.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2	A four amino acid peptide that is claimed to mimic the youth hormone called thymopoietin. It works by compensating the loss of thymic factors that come with age and is thought to stimulate the skin immune defenses and to help the skin regenerate .
Polyglutamic Acid	A natural high-molecular weight amino acid polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) that is claimed to have awesome, better than IT-moisturizer HA , skin hydrating properties . It is a film-forming polymer that improves both the moisture binding and retention properties of the skin.
Cocamide DEA	A cleansing agent whose main thing is being a very good team player next to other (anionic) cleaning agents and working as an excellent foam booster and viscosity builder . The downside of Cocamide DEA is that it may contain residual content of Diethanolamine, a secondary amine known to be a potential source of harmful nitrosamines. But do not panic, Cocamide DEA is considered safe as used in cosmetics, still, the cosmetic industry is actively looking at alternatives and it is used less and less often.
Benzoyl Peroxide	The gold standard topical ingredient in treating acne . There is no miracle cure for acne (we do really wish for one, sigh), but Benzoyl Peroxide (BP) is probably the closest thing we have. But, as usual, big effects come with big side effects, so we think BP is best used as a last resort (at least, in the topical treatment field). The good thing about BP is that it is amazingly effective against inflammatory-type acne . Not so much against blackheads or whiteheads, but against acne that is caused by the evil bacteria called Propionibacterium acnes (and that is most types of acne). Apart from being antibacterial , it is also anti-inflammatory , keratolytic and wound-healing , all of which are properties that make it so darn effective against spots. Another big pro of BP is that there is no bacterial resistance to it, meaning if it works once it will continue to work. Antibiotics are also a common way to treat acne, but antibiotic-resistant P. acnes are increasing worldwide. BP will probably help you even if antibiotics have stopped working, and the two are also often combined for a more complex acne therapy. Btw, BP plays nice not only with antibiotics but also with retinoids . The side-effects part? BP works its antibacterial magic by being a powerful oxidizing agent, meaning it is a pro-oxidant. As in the opposite of an antioxidant . BP literally generates evil ROS (reactive oxygen species) in the skin that kills P. acnes but also harms the surrounding skin cells. Ongoing BP-use ages your skin, which is why, we say, use it as a last resort. If you do use BP, please also use a good sunscreen and a good antioxidant serum to apologise to your skin (btw, these things are useful in any case). Use the BP treatment at night and the antioxidant serum in the morning so that they do not cancel each other out. Another side effect of BP is that it can be very skin drying . BP is an example where more is not better . In fact, it is equally effective at concentrations of 2.5, 5.0 and 10%, but the higher the concentration the more irritating and drying side effects occur. So using BP at 2.5% percent is the ideal amount . Another side effect which is good to know is that BP can bleach bedsheets and clothes. Be careful with your expensive satin bedsheets. Overall , Benzoyl Peroxide is a uniquely effective topical acne treatment, but it comes at a price. Use it as a last resort and for good measure (and with plenty of moisturizers, sunscreen, and antioxidant serum).
Isocetyl Stearate	A clear pale yellow oily liquid (an ester) that makes your skin feel nice and smooth, aka emollient . It has a rich, but non-greasy skin-feel , and can provide a mild feel to the products.
PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer	A water-loving emollient and humectant that gives a nice skin feel and slip to the product. It works well with facial toners.
Disodium Uridine Phosphate	Disodium Uridine Phosphate is a nucleotide (the building blocks of DNA and RNA) precursor that's claimed to support DNA repair in the cell , in particular, the process of nucleotide excision repair. If you are wondering what the heck this means, let's back up: DNA is the super important big molecule in all our cells that serves as the recipe or template from which everything inside us is built . It is super important to have a flawless DNA as a messed up template will result in messed up biochemical molecules and all kinds of diseases. Changes to DNA can happen just spontaneously (luckily super rare) or due to some external thing, such as UV light . Because a flawless DNA is so important, the body has repair mechanisms that can fix most of these changes. Due to UV light, sometimes faulty lesions (called pyrimidine dimer ) appear on the DNA strand and that can be fixed by nucleotide excision repair , where DNA repair enzymes cut out the faulty part, create the new, correct fragment and put it back in. So our guy, Disodium Uridine Phosphate might be able to help with this super useful repair process, though the manufacturer data we have seen examined only the whole "Celligent" complex that also has other antioxidants in it . The whole complex was found in-vivo (with 20 volunteers) to reduces erythema (redness) and promote the regeneration of skin damaged by UV irradiation but it's hard to know what specifically Disodium Uridine Phosphate contributed.
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract	When it comes to Tea Tree, the essential oil is the one that steals the show with its well-documented antimicrobial and anti-acne effects. The extract is not very well defined, and it probably contains the active components of the oil in much-reduced concentrations. Manufacturers still mention soothing, antimicrobial, purifying and antiseptic properties for the tea tree extract.
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester	A soothing dipeptide (tyrosine + arginine) based molecule that functions as a " messenger of tranquility and muscle relaxation ". It works via stimulating the skin nerve cells to release met-enkephalin , which is an opioid (i.e. relaxing, pain-relieving) messenger molecule. This means that Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester can "signal" our skin cells to "relax" and it can instantly decrease skin irritations coming from heat, chemical stinging or mechanical stresses. It is also claimed to be able to prevent the onset of wrinkles and expression lines thanks to its muscle relaxation properties. Regarding the research, we could find one study that compared the calming effects of our guy with the soothing molecule called 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol . They irritated the skin with Capsaicin (the active in chili peppers) and examined how the test products relieved the burning/stinging sensation. They found that both molecules worked, but 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol worked somewhat better.
Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate	A colorless to light yellow oily fluid that works as an emollient (makes your skin nice and smooth) and a solvent for poorly soluble materials, such as sunscreen agents. It also has a light touch, low odor, and good spreadability. It is derived from the amino acid sarcosine and is biodegradable.
Aronia Melanocarpa Fruit Extract	The extract coming from the dark colored berry called black chokeberry . It looks similar to the blueberry but is even darker and the berries do not taste nice and yummy but are rather sour. It's mainly used for juice, jam, and wine production but not as a fruity snack. As for skincare and the black chokeberry, we have good news: the berries are loaded with stuff good-for-the-skin including high amounts of antioxidant polyphenols (mainly anthocyanins), some astringent tannins , hydrating sugar compounds as well as some minerals (relatively high contents of potassium and zinc, and some quantities of Na, Ca, Mg, and Fe) and nice vitamins (vitamins B1, B2, B6, and C). Overall, Aronia Melanocarpa is a potent antioxidant berry that's nice to spot on the ingredient list.
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour	A finely powdered form of Oat Extract that has the same skin soothing, skin protecting and antioxidant benefits we have written about at Avena Sativa Kernel Extract . It is loaded with skin-goodies such as anti-inflammatory agent beta-glucan , skin nourishing lipids, and moisturizing carbohydrates. A real goodie for dry, irritated, inflamed or eczema-prone skin .

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